Q. I have lived in this trailer for 2 years now and before this, there were no problems with the heating, in fact, it was too good at times. This year is a different story. There is no heat. The mobile home ductwork is just blowing cold air. We have replaced the air filters, had the furnace professionally checked, replaced the thermostat, and tried to repair the duct work under the trailer. I am not sure how well the duct work was checked and repaired. Now that it is getting colder, in the lower 20's, and it's just the start, I would like to know about how much should it cost to have someone to look at the ducts and to fix them or replace them? All your sources are for South Carolina and I live in Michigan. This is an older trailer, made in the 60's. If you need more information, just email me. I really just need a fair estimate. It's a single wide, too. I also know that the duct work is not original. Would it be better or cheaper to change to the smaller flex ducts? I really just need the most cost-effective fix to this issue. This place does not get any warmer than 62, during a sunny day, and much colder during the nights. Any information you could give would be helpful, even things that we haven't looked at yet. Thank you for your time.
A. It would be hard for me to give you an estimate without looking at the situation first hand. Let me ask you this, if the ductwork was replaced what was used to replace it and how was it done? Did they use flex duct or metal duct? Is it insulated? Is it electric or gas heat? Take one of the floor registers loose and stick your hand in the duct to feel for air flow, if you feel a lot of air movement then the duct my have come loose somewhere. If you don't feel a lot of air flow then I would suspect the heater. About the only suggestion I can give you is to call some local mobile home parks and dealerships to see who they use for maintenance/repairs and is their anyone honest and reliable they could recommend. Sometimes they have people who work for them that do jobs on the side. If you get any estimates get a few if you can to compare diagnosis and price. You can also go to http://localdouble.com and search for mobile home heat-A/C repair companies. Don't tell them what you suspect let them tell you. Sometimes when you say it might be the duct work they pick that up as a clue to tell you that you need everything replaced, same with the heater. Please let me know what happens because I don't want you to freeze. I know it gets cold up there...Don
Reply: Thank you for your response. This will help a lot. I wasn't even sure where to begin. I will let you know what happens. I am not sure what will happen when, because this week is crazy, but this will give me a place to start. Thank you very much.
Update: A spider had built a web in the pilot light orifice which interfered with the pilot flame.
Mobile Home and Manufactured Homes Questions and Answers for Electrical Plumbing Floor Roof Water Heater Switch Receptacle Outlet Plug Leaks Pipe A/C Repair Problems
Switch Receptacle Combo Wiring
Q. I want to replace my original equip. light switch with a pass & seymour light switch and receptacle plug. Inside I don't have red white and black. I have 3 black and my ground. is the power line the one coming in from the top?
My reply to question...
I'm surprised that there is not a white wire in there. Power usually comes in from the bottom and the "switch leg" to the light goes up inside the wall. Check to make sure that there is no white "neutral" wire. It is possible that there is not a white wire if the power is first brought in through the ceiling junction box where the light fixture is. In that case you will need a volt meter to find the hot leg and the neutral leg to make the outlet work. Do you have a volt meter?
Reply back...
I do have a bunch of white wires that are bundled together with a wire nut. None of them were attached to the light switch. I will check on the volt meter and get back. Thanks for the quick reply.
A. You need to "pigtail" (see website for how to make a pigtail) a white wire to the silver screw on the outlet portion of the outlet. Take whichever black wire is the hot from the breaker box and connect it to the brass or black screw on the outlet switch combo device and then attach the black wire that went to the light fixture on the remaining brass or black screw on the switch part of the combo device and you are done. Take a look at my website for complete instructions on combo switches and pigtail wiring. http://mobile-home-repair.blogspot.com/2015/04/how-to-wire-combination-receptacle.html
Reply back...
Did the job! Thanks
My reply to question...
I'm surprised that there is not a white wire in there. Power usually comes in from the bottom and the "switch leg" to the light goes up inside the wall. Check to make sure that there is no white "neutral" wire. It is possible that there is not a white wire if the power is first brought in through the ceiling junction box where the light fixture is. In that case you will need a volt meter to find the hot leg and the neutral leg to make the outlet work. Do you have a volt meter?
Reply back...
I do have a bunch of white wires that are bundled together with a wire nut. None of them were attached to the light switch. I will check on the volt meter and get back. Thanks for the quick reply.
A. You need to "pigtail" (see website for how to make a pigtail) a white wire to the silver screw on the outlet portion of the outlet. Take whichever black wire is the hot from the breaker box and connect it to the brass or black screw on the outlet switch combo device and then attach the black wire that went to the light fixture on the remaining brass or black screw on the switch part of the combo device and you are done. Take a look at my website for complete instructions on combo switches and pigtail wiring. http://mobile-home-repair.blogspot.com/2015/04/how-to-wire-combination-receptacle.html
Reply back...
Did the job! Thanks
Elastomeric Roof Coating- An Alternative To Full Roof Replacement | Option BG
When you need a material to re-roof an existing roof system, you can use products such as Maximum-Stretch and Super Elasto Barrier, these products can eliminate the need to do a tear-off. There is no adhesive needed; elastomeric roof coating can be swabbed on or applied with rollers. It is as simple as painting it on the the roof, but it forms a solid and impenetrable barrier when dry. It is also resistant to mold, mildew, and high temperatures.
Elastomeric Roof Coating- An Alternative To Full Roof Replacement | Option BG
Elastomeric Roof Coating- An Alternative To Full Roof Replacement | Option BG
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